Boston Marriage: The Gilded Era

On Saturday July 17^th 2010 David Zoffoli wrote in an email to me “I'm directing a show at New Rep and hope you're interested and available to do it with me”. “Of course” I thought –David has been on my list of “must work with” directors and when I learned that the show was Boston Marriage –I had to make my schedule work. This is one of my favorite David Mamet’s plays!

Why is it one of my favorites? Before 1999, this Pulitzer winning playwright was identified as a “writer for men”, but with this play the myth was broken. It centers exclusively on women. It has witty dialogue, double entendres and period expressions that evoke the Victorian & Edwardian eras. Yet the play also has contemporary relevance in the way it explores the relationship of its protagonists. They experience the conflict, negotiation and reconciliation that could arise in any emotional and/or sexual association –especially when those involved want to hold onto a loved one.

Costume Sketch for Claire, Act I, Sc 1

To preview the costume designs go to the link below:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37166747@N00/sets/72157624458112087/show/

[Note: click on the lower right side arrow square for full screen]

How does this apply to costumes? The action takes place at a time when America was experiencing the  "Gilded Age" and "the Rational Dress Society” movement offered women options for less restrictive apparel. The main characters, Claire and Anna are extremely sophisticated and their dialogue reflects this. The vernacular in some of the lines is poetic; Claire refers to Anna’s offerings as a “bonne bouche to console” [bouchée: a small pastry with a sweet or savory filling], Anna dismisses Claire by asking her to “take her conge”. [conge: an unceremonious dismissal of someone]. In consultation with David I decided to combine the nuances in the words and the period research into design metaphors, exploring contrasting colors, sensuous textures and highly stylized shapes. My ultimate design goal is to endow the costumes with meaning and suggestions that reflect who these women are. They are eccentric trendsetters; they are also resourceful, sexy, and sophisticated innovators. They won’t shy away from sexual role-playing due to social convention; they’ll take on the world with finesse, smarts and beauty!

Designer Rafael Jaen discusses costume options with actress Jennie Israel.
"Jaen says: I find it best to start the collaboration early on in the process, to establish rapport --way before the fittings."

Posted by Rafael Jaen